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My auto mechanics courses start this month!
First day of school is January 19th. I will attend classes Monday through Thursday from 1:45 to 4:15pm until May 16th.
I’m scared because I received my school supplies list. I don’t know what any of this is. Oh, except the flashlight and safety goggles. I know what those are.
How much is this going to cost? (I budgeted $500, but that was just a very wild guess.)
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Starter Tool Set
This set is a required base set for all Automotive Technology Students
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Description
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Quantity |
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1/2″ drive extension set
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1 |
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1/2″ drive ratchet
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1 |
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1/2″ drive socket set metric
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1 |
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1/2″ drive socket set SAE
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1 |
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1/4″ drive extension set
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1 |
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1/4″ drive ratchet
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1 |
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1/4″ drive socket set, deep and shallow
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1 set |
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1/4″ drive socket set, metric, deep and shallow
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1 set |
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3/8″ drive ratchet
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1 |
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3/8″ drive extension set
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1 |
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3/8″ drive socket set SAE, shallow
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1 set |
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3/8″ drive socket set, SAE deep
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1 set |
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3/8″ drive torque wrench, 40-200 in. lbs.
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1 |
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3/8″ drive, metric, deep socket set
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1 set |
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3/8″ drive, spark plug socket, 13/16″
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1 |
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3/8″ drive, spark plug socket, 5/8″
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1 |
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3/8″ drive,metric, shallow socket set
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1 set |
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Gasket scraper
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1 |
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Inspection mirror
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1 |
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Pry bar (long)
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1 |
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Tool box
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1 |
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Vise Grip Pliers
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1 |
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1/2inch drive impact
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1 |
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3/8 drive impact
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1 |
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Air chuck with gauge
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1 |
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Battery & Antifreeze Hydrometer
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1 |
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Battery Post / terminal Cleaner
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1 |
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Blow Gun
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1 |
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Circuit tester,12V test light
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1 |
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Combination phillips & straight blade screwdriver set
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1 |
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Feeler Gauges
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1 |
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Fender cover
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1 |
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Flashlight
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1 |
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Funnel
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1 |
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Hacksaw
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1 |
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Hammer, ball peen 18 oz.
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1 |
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Hammer, Plastic tip (soft face)
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1 |
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Hook & pick set
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1 |
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Jumper wire set
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1 |
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Mechanic’s (work) gloves
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1 pair |
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Oil Filter Wrenchs (Small & large)
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1 |
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Pliers, adjustable joint (channel lock)
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1 |
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Pliers, diagonal cutting
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1 |
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Pliers, needle nose
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1 |
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Putty knife/ scraper
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1 |
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Rubber mallet
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1 |
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Safety glasses or goggles
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1 |
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Telescoping magnet
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1 |
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Wire brush, small
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1 |
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Wrench set, combination, 12-point, 5mm – 22mm
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1 set |
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Wrench set, combination, 12-point, 1/4 – 1inch
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1 set |
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These tools are required in addition to the base set for Automotive Electrical Systems
Test Light or Power Probe
Digital Multimeter
Wire Strippers / crimpers
Set of jumper wires
Battery post/terminal brush
5/16″ Battery side terminal wrench
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I also found out that they have a WEB CAM in the classroom/garage! Ugh. Not only am I going to look like fool, but it is going to be broadcast across the Internet!
Oh, and now that I have you mechanically minded folks, can you tell me what you think of this RV? ; )
Happy New Year. See you Monday.
Jennifer
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Countup: 38 days of sobriety! (But I need to get to a meeting today.)
Countdown: 119 days until I move into my RV!
Countdown: Yikes. 4 days until my real estate agent checks out my updates!
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17 Comments
Hey Jen,
I owned 2 different Tiogas in the past. You’re going to love it and the dependability is great. Love the Fleetwood products. Economical and it fits into any space.
GypsyLarry
That class is going to be total fun!! I’d take it with ya but I’m on the other side of the country. Don’t let any num-nut sell you those pieces individually – a lot of them can come in a set. Analyze the sets as you may get some extras. Just look for the one with the least amount of extras.
Congrats on making it into the year without a drink! Enjoy your meeting today!
Kari
My Mother owns the Tioga (My father a more expensive diesel pusher). Hers is older than that and has performed very well, and I think expense wise, she has come out ahead. She loves the RV, so I say go for it.
Regarding tools, $500 is plenty. Get a good name brand socket set and wrench set (Kobalt or craftsman for example) and you will have half the items covered. Everything on the list can be had at Home Depot. Good luck and have a good timde. I recently went back to school to take a welding class for no reason other than interest, and it was a blast.
Hal
Yikes! They don’t supply you with these tools at the school? Damn. You just wanted some basic knowledge of mechanics not to become the traveling master mechanic of the road! And four days a week, almost four hours a day, and for four months?! That’s a lot of dedication. Sounds to me this is the type of course you take if you want to pursue a career in mechanics. Surely there must be someone or someplace that can just give you the run down of basic mechanics. That’s just my take on the situation.
A WEB cam in the classroom? Sweet! What’s the link so we can watch?
The 2007 Fleetwood Tioga is nice. Fleetwood makes a quality RV and it’s certainly a comfortable layout and size for a solo Rver. Sorry I can’t help you on the actual mechanical advice. I’m sure one of your readers will help you out with that information.
Best wishes to you on figuring this all out!
Congrats on the continued sobriety path.
Happy New Year! Enjoy your weekend.
Go to Home Depot, get a Husky Pro ratchet set… the big set is pretty compact and should come with all the 3/8, 1/4 and 1/2 stuff you need. If you don’t see a set with all three sizes, hit another Home Depot. It’s hit or miss if they have the big set. It’s cheaper than Craftsman (Sears) but still good stuff with lifetime warantee, and most importantly it’s reliable stuff and doesn’t take up much room. That’s what I’ve been using for the Jeep trips for years and it’s great. Just make sure it’s the Husky Pro, not just Husky.
The rest of the stuff seems a bit much for a class, IMO. :S
Fleetwood has a rotten rep. That said, lots of people buy them and get good use out of them. I had lots of trouble with my Fleetwood trailer, but I just rolled with the punches and repaired as I went along. I didn’t pay much for it, and I got more than my money’s worth. It will depend on the individual unit. The sad fact is that ALL RVs suck, compared to cars. There’s just a lot of stuff to go wrong, and some of it will.
Now for the good news. This is an E450 with the V10, which means that the mechanicals are probably adequately designed. Run away from any E350 with a slide, as it will be too heavy for the carriage. This unit has been driven more than most, which may actually be good, since any obvious problems will have been dealt with.
The layout seems practical. You’d be surprised how often you can’t get the bathroom door open with the slide in on these things. Be sure to bring the slide in and see if you are still comfortable. There will be places you can’t use it, including just stopping for lunch on the side of the road.
There’s not enough information to really give good advice. That would take a tour. I strongly urge you to study the RV Ratings book put out by http://www.rv.org. You can find it at the downtown Austin Public Library, or buy it online at the website.
This one looks more practical than most. Look for water damage in the leading edge and bed area. And around vents. That front overhead window is a really bad idea, and has been for decades. Splash rain against a window at 70 mph, and sooner or later it WILL leak. You will probably not notice the leak until the whole front end is rotten. It is big $$$ to repair.
Take the mattress out. Crawl up there and look for water stains. If you see them, run away. The damage that shows is the tip of the iceberg.
Your best deal for used will be from an individual in the spring. As a rule, they simply won’t advertise until April, and it often takes them a couple of months to get real about value. Your best deal for new from a dealer will be in Jan or Feb. New, try for 30% off list. Be patient. Dealers love customers who are in a hurry. They will be friendly, but they are not your friend.
On second thought, forget new. Buy lightly used. This one is in that vein.
Bob
About the auto repair course:
This list is designed to give a budding mechanic a very basic set of tools to support repairing cars for a living. That, I think, is not you.
Most people taking this course will already have most of these tools.
I would suggest you find out who is teaching this course, go see them, and ask if it is the right course for someone who just wants to know how to make side of the road repairs and adjustments. Tune ups, changing a fan belt, changing oil, lubing, checking charge on the battery, etc. That, I think, is you.
It may be this is too deep a course for your purposes. Your hands are going look like crap by the end of the first week. And they are going to stay that way.
Make sure this course is the one for you.
OTOH, you can’t really have too many tools. Over a long life, you may actually use half of them. But they do tend to weigh a lot.
Bob
Thanks, you guys, so much!
I am so addicted to your guidance. I really appreciate it.
I definitely think the mechanics classes are way beyond what I need, but they appeal to me for lots of different reasons. (I might write more about that some other time.) I have let the program director know that I am *completely* ignorant…
Not sure if anyone will see this in the comments, but I also have a question about these weight numbers. I am super paranoid about tires and weight, but don’t understand this.
Here is what I found on the 2007 Winnebago View:
GCWR5 (lbs.) 13,700
GVWR (lbs.)10,200
GAWR – Front (lbs.) 3,859
GAWR – Rear (lbs.)7,056
http://www.winnebagoind.com/products/archive/2007/winnebago/view/specs.php
Here is what I found on the 2007 Fleetwood Tioga 24D:
(Oh, but now I see these numbers are for the E350?)
Gross Vehicle Wt Rating (GVWR) 11500
Unloaded Curb Weight (lb) 9890
Front Gross Axle Wt Rating (lb) 4600
Rear Gross Axle Wt Rating (lb) 7800
http://rv.theautochannel.com/show_rv_specs.php?id=1004
What does each one weigh? And how much weight is safe for each one?
I know you can load them up and weigh them after you have them, but want to better understand this for shopping.
Thanks!
Jennifer
I agree with Bob Giddings comment and I would add: where is the microwave??…..this appliance is most important to lazy people like me…..in fact, i like my convection microwave and no oven…..
Jennifer,
The GVWR is the max weight the vehicle is designed to carry. The GCWR is the GVWR plus the weight the vehicle is designed to tow. The weight you are looking for is,”what does the sucker weigh right now”. The manufacturers put the # in each motorhome they build. It is the CCC. It should be on a sticker somewhere in the coach. It will often be in a closet glued to the wall or door. It includes the vehicle as it is built including all equipment that it was manufactured with. It also includes full fuel and fresh water and all drivetrain fluids. It includes 154# for each “sleep position”. So all your stuff should weigh less than the CCC in order to not exceed the GVWR.
I responded to your post over on rv.net when you were looking at the 2 Journeys. My wife & I full time in a 40′ pusher and went to Alaska in ‘08. We drove up the Dalton to Coldfoot and it was amazing.
I really feel for your struggle to find the best vehicle for you to undertake this “quest” of yours.
Good luck,
Steve
Okay. Google is your friend. Here’s the definitions:
http://busbuilding.com/bus-conversion/gvwr-gawr-gcwr-ccc-what-do-all-those-acronyms-mean/
On the View:
GCWR5 (lbs.) 13,700 – Maximum Total weight of Vehicle and any cargo or trailer behind it. I don’t know what that “5″ is. Maybe a typo.
GVWR (lbs.)10,200 – Maximum Weight of Vehicle with everything in it including fuel, water, passengers, etc. Not including any trailer. Note that subtracting this from the GCWR above gives 3500 lb, which is the maximum weight of any trailer. Max tongue weight is usually 10% of this, or 350 lb. This will be stamped on the hitch receiver or bumper.
GAWR – Front (lbs.) 3,859 – Maximum load on front axle. IF the load is equally distributed (never happens), each tire should be minimally rated at half this. But in practice you want much more capacity in your tires, to allow for unequal weights, low tire pressures, and driving forces. Think Michelin. Don’t stint on tires.
GAWR – Rear (lbs.)7,056 – see above. Note there are 4 tires to spread this between instead of two.
I see no figure for actual dry or curb weight. When this is not advertised, it is often because the manufacturer is not proud of the figure, and doesn’t want you to think about it. Expect the View to be near fully loaded BEFORE you put anything in it.
On the Tioga, the 24D comes in E350 and E450 flavors. You want the E450. More capacity.
http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-25-38-5694-0-0-0&l=1&w=25&p=38&f=5697&m=0371&y=2007&ml=T&gc=RV>c=MH&d=2200048112
Assuming the figures given above are correct, note the “Curb Weight”. This usually does NOT include any fluids or cargo or passengers or maybe even options like A/C or generator. 30 gallons of gas weighs around 225 lb. 40 gallons of water weighs around 340 lbs.
The figures above indicate a Cargo Carrying Capacity of 11500 – 9890 = 1610 lb. About average. Barely adequate. Subtract your own weight plus minimal fluids, say 700 lb. If the generator and A/C are not included in curb weight (not standard)then subtract about 400 lb for those. Now you are down to 500 lb. or so for all the dishes, pots, Stairmaster, pets, clothes, tools, and groceries. You can see how it is very easy to get your rig overweight and start blowing tires. The manufacturers often really push the limit here. Ideally you should look for a CCC of a couple of thousand lbs. And leave a safety margin of 500 lbs. Good luck with that.
This is one reason I don’t like slides. They put on another 500 lbs or more, without the mfg necessarily designing that capacity into the rig. They also tend to reduce the size of windows and thus darken the interior.
Most purchasers don’t think about all this stuff. They buy something that costs as much as a small house on the basis of a pretty paint job and a 10 minute test drive. So the manufacturers don’t worry about it. Every design decision they make is based on what pushes units out the door. By the time most people figure it out, the warranty period is long past.
And if you have an accident driving around a thousand pounds overweight, it is you who will be declared at fault. And they will be right. There’s nothing hard about any of this. It is just unfamiliar, and takes getting used to.
I cannot over stress the importance of weighing the rig before buying it. It costs about 5 bucks at a public scale. Takes about 10 minutes. They are in the phone book. Any moving company will have one. If it is overweight, run away.
Once again, consult the RV.org ratings book.
Bob
Hi Jen
I agree with everyone else on on most of what is said. First, the little window in the front on the cabover? not a good idea, have read lots about the leaking issues.
Im looking for one that doesn’t have that.
I also didn’t know that the slides are more weight, but it makes sense. Also, Im not nuts about slides anyway, now I have more reason not to like them.
I think that is a nice model, the sale is good too, have been checking PPL out lots lately.
Take care, good luck in the course, it’s a great idea!
Tools :Talk to the instructor, you will never use most of them again, unless you decide to fix cars for a living LOL.
Guys should already have the basic set. Talk to Dad or Brother.
A good set from Sears, Home Depot, Lowes should be good enough.
Check on pawn shop, some folks hock theirs and you can get them at a good price.
Tioga: Excellent choice! They have a good rep!
Weight Question: Who brought that up? Any unit made will have a carrying capacity for a bunch of junk. You can overload them but only if you work at it!
Don’t worry about it. It will carry your stuff just fine.
Alway Send your questions over to RV.net. for the experts!
You are doing a great job! Keep it up!
James
Up date.
The ford v10 seems to be a real good motor.
Try to find one with the bed on the main floor. I think the overhead bed isn’t liked as well.
When you see the really great floor plan for you, you will know.
Sounds like this class is for someone who wants to be a mechanic, not someone who just wants to know what to do when the car/rv breaks down. My friend spent about 10,000$ on tools thinking he was going to work at Honda for the rest of his life. He said it was “too hard” and quit the mechanic gig after 6 months.
Talk to your instructor and explain to them WHY you took the class – I’m sure he/she has some extra tools lying about that you could borrow although a basic set is a good thing to have when you do break down. You don’t necessarily NEED a fender cover ESPECIALLY if it’s raining/hailing/snowing – you’re not going to take the time to get it out anyway :p
BTW when they say “toolbox” they mean a friggin’ bigass one cause that all that stuff ain’t gonna fit in the little classic box!
“Hammer, Plastic tip (soft face)” lol I can’t ever say I’ve needed a “soft face” hammer when working on a car. EVAR. lol
Might i suggest you take a look at a Lazy Daze motorhome? EXCELLENT reputation, very solid rig. They are class C and come in a 23 ft, 27 ft, and 31 foot size. Check out the Yahoo group Life With a Lazy Daze RV.
GREAT blog, I just found you and read the entire thing, start to finish.
Hope to see you on the road one of these days, we’ve been out for 4 and a half years and still love it.
Kate
http://cholulared.blogspot.com
Bob is right – weights are a critically important issue, don’t buy without weighing first and adding in the weight of options like generators, A/C etc.
FWIW one thought on floorplans. Reading the blogs of very experienced fulltimers and bloggers Andy Baird and Tioga George (who’ve been doing this for years) has convinced me of the value of twin beds in the rear so that one can be removed and replaced with a large desk for your computer blogging etc. Seems like that might be a need for you too if you’ll continue blogging from the road.